Selecting the program

When selecting the correct program to use, refer to the ‘settings’ page on the website, the correct programs for all the cartridges we have tested are listed.

Programs are generally based on three things: Caliber, Brand and neck wall thickness. Ensure you choose the correct program based on your cartridge.

Enter the correct program number into the machine using the blue (-) and (+) buttons on the machine. Press and hold down to rapidly cycle through the programs. As soon as the (Start) button is pressed the first time, the program lock (denoted by *) is activated. This prevents accidentally changing the program during an annealing run. To unlock, just hold either (+) or (–) buttons down for two seconds.

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Insert program

My Cartridge is not listed

If you have a cartridge or a brand of brass that is not listed, simply send us the cases for calibration. Download the "Contributor's Form" and follow the instructions. Do not attempt to calibrate cases yourself. We use highly accurate micro-Vickers hardness testing equipment to ensure accuracy.

This is a Free Service we provide for all customers to ensure the correct results are obtained.

Selecting the pilot

When selecting the correct pilot to use for any cartridge, refer to the 'settings' page on the website listed previously, the correct pilots for all cartridges are listed. Some pilots can be used for multiple cartridges. Insert the correct aluminium pilot into the boss on the machine until it has bottomed out. Do not over tighten. Take care to avoid cross threading the pilot when inserting as damage to the thread may result.

Inser pilot into machine
Inserted pilot on the machine

Shell Holder Grip

Your cartridge specific shell holder is used to insert the cartridges into the machine. Provided is a brass grip which attached to the shell holder to make it more comfortable to use. Insert the shell holder lug end into the grip and tighten the collet.

amp website pilot
amp website pilot
amp website pilot

Twist the small knurl while holding the big knurl to lock holder

Shell holders not supplied. All common brands of standard shell holders as used in reloading presses will fit into the brass grip.

Using the machine

With the correct program and pilot loaded in the machine annealing can now commence. Place a cartridge into the shell holder/grip combination and insert the cartridge into the pilot. Make sure the face of the shell holder is mated square to the face of the pilot (Figure 9).

amp website pilot
amp website pilot

Press the start button to anneal, the button will illuminate red during heating and will turn off when finished. During normal operation a clicking sound will be made, this is part of the heating process. Depending on how clean the cartridge is a light puff of smoke may be visible emitting from the grip hole.

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Placing the thumb over the gap in the shell holder during insertion and removal prevents the case falling out during use.
Once the annealing cycle has ended, remove the case promptly from the machine and into your chosen heat proof tray.
Take care to remove cases from the annealer vertically.
We have found that most cases will simply fall out of the shell holder and into the cooling tray with gravity however some cases tend to stick more. We therefore recommend removing the cases from the shell holder by using the edge of your cooling tray to push the cartridge out of the shell holder as shown. Redding E-Z Feed shell holders give the smoothest results.

Always remove each annealed case from the shell holder promptly. The longer a hot case is left in the shell holder the more heat can migrate to the brass grip. With normal cycling the shell holder grip should remain comfortable to use for hundreds of cases. Note: the new 50 Cal. brass shell holder grip is insulated to prevent undue heat migration from the annealed cases. Take care not to touch the steel shell holder itself. That will get reasonably hot after annealing 30 - 40 cases.

For best results let annealed cases cool down without assistance. Quenching in water is not necessary.

CASES WILL BE HOT. Take care when handling annealed cases.

amp website pilot
amp website pilot

Hold thumb over opening during handling

amp website pilot
amp website pilot

Remove the cartridge by using the edge of your cooling tray as shown above.

How often should brass be annealed?

The short answer to this question is: every reload.

Here is a little more detail:

As the shooting and resizing cycle progresses, the percentage increase in hardness diminishes, simply because brass can only get so hard. The important thing is that the biggest increase in the first reload. Different chambers, dies etc. will give some variation, but the trend is the same. We have now tested a wide variety of brass from our contributors, and invariably the necks as received are well in excess in hardness compared to virgin brass. Many which are only 2 - 3 reloads old are as much as 60% harder than virgin brass.

In summary, each reload makes a significant increase in hardness (until terminal hardness is reached). The only way to get consistent neck hardness reload to reload is to anneal every cycle.

What is the correct sequence - anneal/resize or resize/anneal?

If annealing brass that has had multiple reloads or is unknown history, we would strongly recommend annealing first followed by resizing. This is because the harder the brass, the more likely it is to resist conforming the resizing die and "springing back".

Our settings target an annealed neck hardness consistent with virgin brass, (some cartridges are a little higher or lower). Because the process anneals both the neck and shoulder, die conformity will be correct when resizing. Note: we have found that the target annealed hardness is reached reliably regardless of the starting hardness i.e. it doesn't matter if it starts at 20% harder or even 70% harder, it will still come back to the same hardness.

If, as we recommend, annealing is done every reload, the brass is always soft enough in the neck and shoulder to resize accurately either before or after annealing. We have, however recorded consistently more uniform hardness test results by annealing before resizing. We recommend this sequence:

De-prime optional depending on your cleaning process.

Clean (tumble, ultra-sonic etc. - again optional. Cleaning won't affect annealing results). If steel wool is used, ensure it is completely removed before annealing.


Lube - this is vital even with nitrided dies. We do not recommend dry media graphite when lubing freshly annealed cases. It does not adhere well.

Resize Note: after annealing, the sizing die may need to be adjusted for both shoulder bump and neck OD. This is because correctly annealed cases will have zero spring back. See FAQ 3, 5 and 6. De-priming can be done as part of the resizing process. For more detail, refer to these articles:


Take note

Cosmetics: The appearance of different cases will vary after annealing. Some cases will show distinct annealing discoloration at the neck and shoulder, while other cases will show virtually no signs of being annealed. This is not limited to any particular brands. Do not mistake appearance for successful annealing. Some cases which appear heavily discolored are actually not fully annealed. Our settings are reached by extensive and accurate testing of the annealed hardness.

Thermal cut out: In common with any induction heater, with extended use, the output inductor will gradually heat up. Multiple fans are installed in our annealer to keep the circuitry and inductor cool. After 40 - 50 cases have been annealed, the top of the unit behind the pilot will start to feel warm to the touch. This is normal.

In the event that the output inductor should reach 190F/90C (inside the annealer), a thermal cut out will activate to protect the unit. If that occurs, leave the annealer turned on so the fans continue cooling. It will automatically reset after 30 minutes, once cooling is complete.

The ability of the annealer to run for the extended time depends partly on the ambient room temperature. Avoid using in direct hot sunlight or high temperature conditions. A room temperature of 70℉/20℃ or below ideal.

amp website pilot


For full support in any areas regarding how to use and maintain this machine and for any problems, questions and feedback please do not hesitate in contacting support.

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There are NO user serviceable parts within the machine. Do NOT attempt to remove ANY screws

Dropped Cases: If a cartridge falls out of the shell holder and into the machine, simply turn off the power at the back of the machine, remove the pilot and retrieve the cartridge. If already annealed, it will be HOT. For extremely short cartridges, a pair of long nosed pliers can be used to retrieve them. Dropping a hot case will not damage the annealer. A small amount of poly-carbonate at the bottom of the well may melt, but this is just cosmetic. Note: our Mark ll annealers feature a ceramic insert at the bottom of the inductor. No damage at all will result from dropping a hot case.

Machine won’t turn on: Check that the power cable is firmly pushed into the power socket and check the fuse located in the power socket for serviceability. Take care to replace the fuse with the correct type (10A, 240V AC, 5mm x 20mm, F (speed), Ceramic) if needed. If the fuse is serviceable and the machine still won’t turn on contact support.


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Faster than normal cut out: If the machine begins to reach thermal cut out faster than normal, check the air intake filter is clean and not obstructed as this can prevent air from cooling the inductor. The filter is located on the right side of the machine and can be removed/replaced by using a flat head screwdriver to lift the plastic cover off the outer housing by inserting it into the slots and levering outward. When not in use, we suggest placing the provided dust cover over the machine.

Cartridge over heated: Except for sacrificial cases in AZTEC mode, cases should never come out of the annealer glowing red. If one does, stop annealing and check the head stamp of the case. It will be either the wrong brand for the program setting, or alternatively, a different lot number from the samples tested for our Settings Page. If it is a different lot number, samples should be sent to us for correct calibration. Pay particular attention to the neck wall thickness of the cartridge as this greatly effects the end result. If you are unsure of which program to use for a given cartridge contact support.

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Machine operates but no heat: Ensure you have the correct program and pilot installed for the cartridge being annealed. If the above is correct and there is still no heat, clean the inside of the inductor well. If FREQ DET ERROR is displayed on the LCD screen, the air gap should definitely be cleaned. See below in Care and Maintenance.

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No annealing marks on cartridge: Please refer to the TAKE NOTE section in the previous section in the manual regarding cosmetics of annealed cartridges.

Cartridges difficult to remove from shell holder: Refer to the previous section of the manual titled TAKE NOTE it is recommended to wipe the cartridge against the lip of the cooling tray to remove cartridges instead of using fingers as cartridges will be hot.

Care and Maintenance

From time to time, debris can accumulate in the inductor air gap well. This can be removed by using moistened cue tips or similar. Loose debris can be removed carefully with a vacuum cleaner. If any ferrous material such as steel wool fragments accumulates inside the air gap, it will adversely affect the magnetics of the inductor. Cleaning the air gap well with several cue tips should fix the problem. We recommend not using steel wool in the first place.

The dome head machine screws used on the top and back of the annealer are blued mild steel. In damp environments, these can rust. We suggest wiping with a little gun oil periodically. The rivet heads are fine.

After use, we suggest leaving the annealer to run for five minutes before turning off. This will allow the fans to cool the annealer down and expel any condensation.

After cool down, place the supplied dust cover over the annealer.

FCC Regulation

This equipment has been tested and found to comply with the limits for a Class B digital device pursuant to part 15 of the FCC Rules and as a consumer ISM device pursuant to part 18 of the FCC Rules.

These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference in a residential installation.

This equipment generates, uses and can radiate radio frequency energy and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmful interference to radio communications.

However, there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation.

If this equipment does harmful interference to radio or television reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try to correct interference by one or more of the following measures:

  • Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna.
  • Increase the separation between the equipment and receiver.
  • Connect the equipment into an outlet on a circuit different from that to which the receiver is connected.
  • Consult the dealer or an experienced radio/TV technician for help.

Using this equipment in accordance with the user's guide will ensure safe, reliable and long lasting performance.

Changes or modifications to the equipment not expressly approved by equipment manufacturer will void the user's authority to operate the equipment